The multicultural Colombia mosaic is much different than in Canada. This is one thing that has been weird when coming back to Canada. No one is out of place in Canada; at least not in the major cities. Canada is arguably the most multicultural country in the world (sorry USA, I think we have you beat.) Colombia, on the other hand, embraces a much different form of multiculturalism.

Ya, Canada’s pretty beautiful too.

It’s funny what we have a greater appreciation for once leaving our own country. Random biggest craving I had while I was in Colombia? Indian food. Is Indian food Canadian? No, but in a funny way it is. Some of the best Indian food outside of Delhi can be found in Canada’s large cities.

Colombia, on the other hand, doesn’t even have a single Indian restaurant in it’s second largest city, Medellin. I realize the reasoning behind this; there are probably less people of Indian heritage in all of Colombia than in a square kilometer in Vancouver. On top of this, Colombians aren’t accustomed to, nor do they enjoy Indian food.

The illustration of Indian food I make just as an example of things that we take for granted in Canada. The world is within our borders, and we can find near anything we want from any corner of the world within our major cities. I came home from South Korea a few years ago, and can still eat an amazing Korean BBQ whenever I feel the desire. This is not possible in Bogota, which is 8x the size of Calgary.

Slave trade statue in Cartagena. This sad history is part of Colombia’s multiculturalism.

OK, I’ve focused a lot on the food aspect of multiculturalism; I’ve done this for two reason. One, it’s a big part of a culture. Two, I love food.

Obviously there is much more than food options to concern yourself with when talking about multiculturalism. Colombia, in many ways, is a multicultural country; it’s just not multicultural in a way in which a Canadian is familiar. Within Colombia’s borders there are a plethora of indigenous tribes, all with their own customs, cultures, traditions, clothing, and yes, food.

There are also many people descending from different backgrounds. Colombia has the third largest population of people with African heritage in the New World, behind only the USA and Brazil. The dances, food, drink, music, and customs of this Colombian sub-group is extremely rich. I had the opportunity to attend the Pacific Music Night during the Feria de Cali. A non-black Colombian was a rare sight this evening, never mind a gringo like your’s truly.

Colombia’s Pacific Coast is largely of African decent.

This Pacific Music Night reflected very clearly to me the rich diversity of Colombia’s different people. I was able to try their food (mostly fried fish,) their drink (terrible tasting fermented who-knows-what,) and their dance (which is much better than their food or alcohol.) One of my most vivid memories from Colombia was dancing in the middle of a dance circle, having about 20 black Colombians cheering me on. Then, with the warmth that was so frequently shown me while in Colombia, they went about showing me new moves to work on, all the while cheering me on when I got close to nailing said move.

Carnaval in Barranquilla is a “must-see” event to see the beauty and complexity of a multicultural Colombia.

The true fibre of a country comes out during their festivals. Nowhere is this more evident than during the Carnaval de Barranquilla. Carnaval is Colombia’s biggest festival, and the second largest Carnaval on the continent. The whole of Colombia’s history, culture, traditions, and people can be seen dancing down the streets of Barranquilla during this amazing event. You’d have a challenge arguing that Colombia wasn’t multicultural after witnessing, and participating in this spectacle of colour, life, people, and culture.

Having traveled widely around Colombia, I can definitely say that it is multicultural. The Paisas of Medellin are as culturally different to the Costeños as Canadians are to Europeans. The Cogi people of the Sierra Nevadas are a world away from the Rolos of Bogota. This is multiculturalism in Colombia. They just don’t have Indian food.

Medellin Colombia has tango? Yes. In fact there’s a history of tango in Medellin. Unfortunately the complexity of this beautiful dance has been lost on the younger generation, but there are still a few triumphant dancers that keep this art-form alive. Gracias a dios (thanks to god.)

The promotional poster for the performance of tango in Medellin in which I attended.

On the 31st of May I attended a tango show at the theatre in the University of Medellin. The show was called “A Puro Tango” and it featured some of Colombia’s finest tango dancers, musicians, and singers. The theatre is a truly modern and beautiful facility, and made a host location for the show.

Unfortunately not her dance partner.

I know Tango’s home and heart is in Buenos Aires, but the beauty of the dance has inspired others around the world to learn and take up the dance. The fact that Paisas like to differentiate themselves from the rest of the country, made for a perfect breeding ground for the dance in Antioquia’s capital. Along with this, one of tango’s most famous singers, Carlos Gardel, died in Medellin Colombia. Medellin carried on the tradition of Carlos Gardel in the best fashion they knew how: embracing the dance he lived for.

Carolina and I with a pair of the dancers.

On this particular night it was all about the exhibition of this sensual dance, and the music that accompanies it. The tango show was a four act piece that embraced the seasons of the year combined with the signs of the zodiac. In true tango fashion it was a sexually tantalizing journey put on display by these gifted artists. If you don’t feel like grabbing the closest person of your persuasion and doing the “horizontal tango” after watching this show, you should check yourself for a pulse – you may be dead.

For More Information on Tango in Medellin Colombia

The Tango Medellin website has a very comprehensive list of information on the subject (although in Spanish.)

Here’s a few bars that have regular tango:

Salon Malaga: Cra 51 #45-80

Casa Gardlienia: Cra 45 #76-50

Cafe Bar “CanTango”: Calle 19 #22-20

Salon de Eventos – A Puro Tango: Calle 44 #65-51

Bar Torrente: Cra 47 #53-67 in Bello

Abrazos.

One Sunday I went to a Benedictine monastery. Believe me, I wasn’t going to become a monk, but rather as a nice hike, to a beautiful place, with a lookout over the surrounding area. We happened to go on a Sunday, which meant that mass was being held. I have proudly missed attending a Catholic service for many years. I didn’t stay for the whole service on this day either, but the singing was truly beautiful.

 The monastery up in the Colombian hillside.

On this particular Sunday we asked the hostel staff for a nice walk that wasn’t too long. He suggested walking to the monastery. It was only about 40 minutes from the hostel, but the road, which was essentially a back-country road, was really busy this day. We realized upon arrival that everyone was going to the same place we were, they just had chosen a different mode of transport.

You’re going to need a view if you’re going to be silent for so long!

I wouldn’t recommend going to the monastery on a day where there isn’t a service. It’s beautiful there, but there isn’t a whole lot to see. The main attraction was definitely the mass, complete with the famous choir.

Look Mom! I’m practicing to be a monk.

The monastery was situated on top of the hill with a viewpoint of Guatape and El Peñol below. It was a beautiful location, and we just happened to be lucky enough to hear the famous Benedictine choir singing.  Check out the video below.

A video of the famous and beautiful singing of the Benedictine monks.

How to Get to the Monastery:

The monastery is about an hour walk from the town square of Guatape. To get to Guatape go to the North Bus Terminal in Medellin, and find the stand for Guatape. Buses leave approximately every hour from 7am-7pm and cost about 8000COP depending on the company you choose.  The trip is about two hours to the Guatape town centre.  From there you can take a tuk-tuk to the monastery, or you can hike. Once again, I’d recommend going on a Sunday.

Abrazos.

You can see six of the band members here, which was just over half of the band.

Enjoy this clip I took of just how awesome and random an eleven piece Belgium brass band on the beach can be!

Abrazos!

A beautiful courtyard in front of the Santo Domingo church.  It used to be used as a courtyard to auction off slaves.  I like its current use much better.  Sitting and drinking Colombia’s largest (legal) export in the shadows of its antique coastal city architecture is truly fantastic.  Add on top of this some fine literature from one of the city’s most famous residents, Gabriel Garcia Marquez, and you have a truly Colombian experience.  I’m glad that I have been reading El Amor en los Tiempos de Colera before I arrived here.  It gave me a flavour for times passed, and a cultural context of the city.  While here I am able to enjoy walking the streets that were the setting for this beautiful novel.

As I was exiting the Old City in order to go back to my hotel I encountered this very lively troupe of dancers and drummers.  So much energy and passion in their performance.  The tagline for the Colombian Tourism Board is “Colombia es Pasion”.  I would definitely agree with this statement.  There are some lyrics to a song by Latino hip hop band Calle 13 that go like this “No tengo mucha plata, pero tengo cobre.  Aquí se baila como bailan los pobres.”  Essentially, “I don’t have much money (literally: silver,) but I have tenacity (copper.) Here you dance like the poor dance.”  I think these lyrics apply here.

Abrazos.

5:00pm-7:00pm

It’s been a rough day.  I need a siesta before the night ahead.  I love siestas.

7:00pm-7:30pm

Time for some fuel before my free salsa lessons.  Mmmmm . . . street food.  I love eating on the street wherever I am travelling.  No different here.  Tonight’s specialty is BBQ’d ribs with potatoes and salad.  D-licious.  Oh, and since Medellin’s tap water is as good as anywhere there’s never a problem with worrying what you can, and can not eat.  Point: Medellin.

7:45-10:00pm

My weekly free salsa classes at the best hostel in Medellin: The Wandering Paisa.  If you need a place to stay when coming through, check it out.  Friendly staff, inexpensive bar, free activities, and great location.  By the way, all of my plugs on here are completely on my own accord, and I’m not getting paid for them.  I just believe in the businesses and the people who run them.

Let’s Dance.

Yes, I know I look effeminate in this picture, but I also find it funny.  Ana, on the other hand, the fantastic teacher of the class has her pose nailed.  Apparently I need to work on mine, including adding a spandex dance suit.  Might take more practice than my weekly lessons.  Good thing I have time.